Studio Skin

Excuses, excuses.

2010-07-05T17:49:00.002-05:00

It's been a while...a very long while...

I hate giving excuses BUT, I have been beyond busy. My husband gets quite cranky when I decide to stay on the computer past 6pm working, in which he considers this work. SO with my To-Do list being long enough to wrap around the globe, my beloved Studio Skin has become low on the totem pole.

However. This week is an exciting week because my mother, the real owner of The Spa, is graduating cosmetology school. This is the HAPPIEST day for me because it means I finally have her back to help me tackle that mile long to do list....in turn pushing my desire to blog about all things skin higher on that totem pole.

I have plenty to blog about. So stay tuned!!

Have a suggestion? Leave me a comment!!

Dry. Drier. Driest.

2010-01-13T16:20:00.003-06:00

As a skin therapist I see TONS of different skin types and concerns. The most thrilling part of my job is that I get to know my client's skin and recognize when it is changing. During the winter months, the biggest complaint I hear is about how DRY their skin is. I always ask for an explanation...dry can mean a thousand different things. Tight. Itchy. Flaky. Sensitive. Burning. The list goes on.

I am hear to tell you, THERE IS A CURE!! But, you must promise to listen and trust what I am about to tell you....ready?

Dry skin can be a type or a condition. A skin type is the skin you are genetically given. In the perfect world, in the perfect climate, this would be the skin you deal with. Your skin condition is something that has been effected by outside elements, be it the weather, sun exposure, your diet, stress and so forth. A person with a dry skin type is going to be dry all year, possibly getting worse in the winter. A person with a dry skin condition is going to be dry when these harsh winter months come. Now determining which category your dry skin falls under will help in your quest for the cure...

The first, and largest, misconception about 'dry skin' is the struggle between lack of oil and lack of water. Lack of oil means you are dry and in need of moisture. Lack of water means you are dehydrated and in need of hydration. The tricky part is that the symptoms of these 2 concerns are very similar. It is near impossible for me to tell you how to determine which you are struggling with because it is something that needs to be visually determined, but the education alone might help some of you....For example. If you are a person who tends to get oily during the day, especially in the summer, and can't wear anything heavy because it makes this worse, then you do not have an oil production issue, you have a lack of water issue. BUT if you are someone who can slather on the thickest of creams and still feel tight, then you do have an oil production issue.

NOW FOR THE RULES! Ahhh...yes rules. You hate them. I hate them. But they are proven.
The words that make me cringe the most in the winter is when I hear a client tell me "I am sooooo dry, I have been slathering vaseline/baby oil/ jergens /etc on my skin but nothing is working".
These words are fighting words in my dictionary. Products like these only make dry skin worse. I am not telling you this to convince you to purchase some uber expensive product. I am telling you this because it is 100% true. And here is why....
Jojoba oil is the closest to skins natural sebum. If you have felt jojoba oil you know it feels light and absorbs rather well. The molecular weight of products that use petroleum (vaseline), mineral oil (baby oil), or glycerin is SO much larger than what our skins natural sebum is. Therefore, our skin cannot absorb it because it is too large of a molecule to penetrate our skin. So, instead, it sits on top of the skin (or absorbs into the first couple layers, which will shed in a matter of days). When it sits on the top of your skin it tricks the sebaceous glands into thinking they are overproducing oil, because to them, there is an excess. So they slow down, and as soon as that low quality product is wiped away, which happens very fast (you wonder why you have to apply carmex 10 thousand times a day? Same concept.) you lose not only the 'pretend' moisture you had but your skin is no longer producing its natural moisture barrier. Which then leads to drier skin and, even worse, NO PROTECTION! (which is one reason some skin gets sensitive when dry).
So Rule One...please, pleasepleaseplease, put down the tub of vaseline.

Rule Two. DRINK WATER. During the cold months, it is so easy for everyone to forget to drink water because we are constantly drinking warm beverages to keep ourselves from freezing. I admit, I can easily sit and drink 8 glasses of hot tea at night (really...I am not joking). Before I know it, my skin is tight, I am cranky, my joints are stiff and I feel awful. The best way to hydrate your skin is from within. Only pure water will do this, so drink plenty of it (and I am sorry to say but, the bottle of water with the flavor packet added does not count :( )

Rule Three. Treat your skin. Go out and get a mask that you can use 2-3 times a week. Make it a ritual. Throw it on, light some candles and meditate in your bathroom for the 10 minutes it needs to set. Dermalogica and Aveda have my favorite masks. Dermalogica has a the most perfect one for dry skin and Aveda for dehydrated. I am a firm believer in treating your skin year around, but during the winter it is crucial.

Rule Four. Watch what you eat. Again, this time of year is awful for our sodium intake. Soups being the biggest culprit. If you can, make homemade soups, if you can't, buy the best possible canned. Look for low sodium options. Taste everything before you salt it and try to eat as many fresh fruits and veggies as possible. Can't do fresh?? Frozen conquers canned any day. Sodium will make dehydration and dryness so much worse. Even if you are packing yourself full of H2O, that sodium is just sucking it all up.

Rule Five. Use a facial wash that is pH balanced to the skin. Creamy cleansers are going to be best for drier skin but can be too much for dehydrated, so look for a gel cleanser that is suitable for combination skin. And please, don't use bar soap on your face! It is the worst (even worse than vaseline) thing you can put on your skin!

Need more? I have TONS of options for you :) Dermalogica and Aveda have some great options for both dry and dehydrated skin conditions, and if you aren't sure which condition you are dealing with a quick 5 minute skin analysis can tell you (and did I mention those are freBe?).
AND, best of all, if you mention you read this post you can receive 15% OFF your skincare purchase at The Spa! If you want a time that I am available to talk with you about your concerns, call 249-1772 and schedule a 30 minute FREE skin consultation.

If you have any more questions about this, or any other topic, feel free to comment or email me! h_wilson18@yahoo.com

I hope 2010 has been good so far!

Natural Cosmetics Part 2

2009-12-16T16:11:00.003-06:00

First...I must apologize for the lack of entries. With the Holiday Season, my spare time got crunched from little to nothing...

BUT...now that I have a moment...I have returned with Natural Cosmetics Part 2

In my last entry, I discussed some basic educational guidelines that will make your search for a natural and/or organic makeup line easier. I have done some research of my own, and have a few brands and products that I love, hate or were surprised by!

Before I start with my findings...this is what I took into consideration.
1) The brand, what it stands for, its philosophies and purpose. 2) Their marketing. Do they have nothing but popular celebrities on their campaign? Do they sound like they are trying to sell you something. 3) Do they offer ingredient information easily and readily?

Almay Pure Blends - $6-$15 - Walmart or like stores
Surprised? You ought to be. This product line is made with 95% natural ingredients. No parabens, no talc AND is hypoallergenic. Their website has tons of information on their ingredients, formulations and products. If you click on "for professionals" it allows you to view their "brand formulary" which lists ALL of their products ingredients. My only concern is many lines do what Almay has done. Taken their name, and attached a new "segment" of natural and organic makeup. A brilliant marketing strategy because they can tap into the market of consumers looking for a good alternative to synthetic makeups. Thankfully, Almay has lived true to their advertisements and does offer exactly what they say they offer, because many lines doing this same thing SAY they have a segment for these items, but they still contain all the junk in their basic segments. So it is up to you to decide if their purpose matters to you.

Neutrogena - $6 - $15 - Walmart or like stores
Many people think Neutrogena and think it has to be good...its #1 dermatologist recommended. Well, yes, but with any product line, remember that 1) you don't know who the recommendee is. Very easily could be a poorly practicing doctor. and 2) Money talks. People can be bought to recommend anything. So do your research. Neutrogena isn't a bad line. It has been around forever, I have used it as well as many of you. But its natural factor is low. Their website doesn't list ingredients (I searched and searched, and if I missed it, they are hiding it quite well). Of course they have products like their "Healthy Volume Mascara" which is made with Olive Oil. Don't let marketing fool you. A greasy hamburger has veggies on it...that doesn't make it healthy for you. So. Bottom line? The worst option as far as makeup as a whole goes? No, and definitely not for the price. The best option for a natural product? No.

Physicians Formula - $6-$15 - Walmart or like stores.
This is a line that has been under the radar for many people. I can sum it up very easily. All of its aspects highly compare to Almay's Pure Blends. They have an "Organic" and "Mineral Wear" segment that are for the most part, good quality products (they do contain talc...). However, again, they have their basic segment, which products contain talc as well as a whole list of ingredients that I cannot pronounce. (not sure if I mentioned this before but, if you can't pronounce it, its probably synthetic). The lines are fun, bright and typically might appeal to a younger crowd. They also contain more options to appeal to a wider range of people as well.

Clinique - $14-$35 - Department Stores
Clinique is mostly known for their skin care. I like to think of Clinique as the more costly version of Neutrogena. A good product in general? Yes. The best for your natural pick? No. One thing that really irked me on their website is that they have an article about how "Natural Isn't Always Better". They say "Poison Ivy is natural...but we wouldn't recommend rubbing that on your skin". WELL OF COURSE NOT. And this just frustrates me because it is completely one sided. They talk about how natural ingredients are commonly allergens and so they do not use them. Well, I don't know how Almay did it, but Pure Blends are hypoallergenic. But part of being natural, even if its only partially, is eliminating ingredients that are proven unsafe for your skin such as mineral oil, alcohols, etc. NOW maybe Clinique has done this, but their ingredients are not listed on their website so I am not sure. Don't get me wrong, Clinique is not a bad line, especially for those who are sensitized or extremely allergic to many products. If that person were to ask me for a recommendation, I'd recommend Clinique. That is their purpose, their philosophy. But for a natural recommendation, not the best.

Korres - $9 - $45 - Sephora
I might be biased, but I will recommend Korres day in and day out. Simply put...they are 100% a Natural Product Line (their body products are wonderful too!). They have made a commitment to NO mineral oils, parabens, sulphates, petrochemicals, AND MORE!! Their product is the only one I can truly say PERFORMS and lasts. Feels good, smells good, and works. They are an international company founded in Athens (where many of our beauty rituals are rooted). Their website contains LOADS of information on their history, founders, purpose and products. If I had to give them a score on 1 - 10, I'd give them a 20.

Tarte - $10 - $65 - Sephora
Again, a favorite of mine. A lot like Korres in the aspect that it is a 100% Natural line with purpose and philosophies built around that. Their products don't contain parabens, petrochemicals, phthalates, sulphates or synthetic fragrances AND their packaging is recyclable! Tarte is a little louder than Korres as far as their color options go, which is nice to have since many natural lines are very muted. What is even more fun is, the founder of Tarte wanted a Glamorous line, to put a halt to the stereotype that glamorous, functioning beauty products could not be healthy. So their packaging is beautiful, but classy too. Their website also has a TON of information.

Now, I know this is a ton of information, and in reality, I could have gone on for days. These are the lines that are constantly sticking out to me, which is why I chose to write about them.

Have a favorite or want more information on a line I didn't mention?? COMMENT and let me know! I will find it, try it, research it and spread the word. Until then, don't be afraid to educate yourself. Look at labels, read websites. What works for one person might not work for you.

Have a safe and HAPPY Holiday :)

Natural Cosmetics Part 1

2009-11-02T20:09:00.003-06:00

Natural makeup is something many ladies struggle with. What do all the terms mean, what is really natural, what is organic, what is certified organic and why can't I find a good for me line that actually performs? It is a subject that has plastered the pages of many skin magazines, beauty magazines and websites alike.

Before I start, let me say, working at a day spa in which has a HUGE focus on natural and good for you ingredients, this is a subject I myself have researched and thought a lot about. Many of my clients ask me what I wear, what I think and what my experience has been. This in turn makes me make sure I know what the latest, greatest and biggest trends are.

This is a HUGE subject to cover. So I am going to do this in 2 blogging sessions.

First, a break down of the common terms seems necessary.

When a product talks about Natural Ingredients, that refers to ingredients that are plant based and naturally derived, nothing man made or synthetic (including fragrances!). No chemicals, dyes or Genetically Modified Organisms added. The ingredient in the product is the same ingredient that came from the ground/tree/plant. The kicker to this is, the term "natural" is NOT regulated by the FDA. So a product line can slap a "natural" label on and it is up to YOU to read the ingredients and know if the product is up to your natural standard.

The term Organic refers to how a substance is grown and harvested (free of pesticides, herbicides and insecticides) and their production must be certified as organic by an Independent Organization. The USDA regulates organic ingredients in personal care products and have set guidelines on how a label can be worded.

Made with Organic Ingredients - 70-94% certified organic ingredients, with restrictions on the remaining 30%. These products CANNOT bear the USDA Seal.
Certified Organic - 95 - 99% certified organic ingredients, with restrictions on the remaining 5%. These products can bear the USDA seal.
100% Certified Organic - Uses 100% certified organic ingredients and is certified by the USDA and bears the seal.

If a product contains less than 70% organic ingredients, they cannot be called 'organic' and cannot bear the USDA seal. However, they can put an asterisk by the individual ingredients that are certified organic.

The NAUGHTY List...Yes it exist, and to this day there is major controversy on some ingredients. But there are some solid 'no no's' when it comes to searching for a good natural makeup line.

Mineral Oil - NEVER should be in a product that is considered natural (or any product, if you ask me). Mineral Oil is a drug store cosmetic brands DREAM. Why? Because it is a cheap alternative to any suitable moisturizer. However, the molecule of Mineral Oil is so large, it cannot absorb into the skin but rather sits on top of the skin, creating a greasy mess that clogs pores and makes every product we put on top of it cakey and oily. This ingredient is in more products than you could imagine. If you take nothing else from this, just trust me when I say this product is not helping you at all.
Petroleum - This ingredient is just as bad as Mineral Oil, except has an awful rebound. Petroleum sits on top of the skin like Mineral Oil does, and tricks the skin into thinking it has an abundance of moisture. So the skin's sebaceous glands slow down, to help regulate the production of oil. But, since that petroleum is just sitting there, it is not penetrating the skin and actually moisturizing the deeper layers. So as soon as that petroleum is wiped away, there is no moisture, there is no protection. So after using this product, your sebaceous glands stop doing their job and your skin becomes dry, flaky and chapped. (In which, you go and find a product with Shea butter, Beeswax or Jojoba Oil to restore those properties).
Silicone, Sulfates, Parabens, Talc - All these products are on the "up for grabs list". Some people say these are no threat. Some say certain types are bad. Some say in small quantities it is okay. Here is my opinion. If it is man made, its not natural, its not good. I stay away from silicone's because typically they are pore clogging because they are of a higher molecular weight. Sulfates are a detergent substance, they create a product to lather and therefore can be very drying and stripping to the skin. Talc is actually from a stone, a mineral, but can be drying and sensitizing to the skin so that is really a skin by skin basis. AND Parabens. The evil paraben. In a perfect world, I would not use parabens because there is no sure study saying "yes it is okay" or "no it is dangerous". But, truth be told, in this world it is impossible. Parabens are, as of now, the most efficient preservative. I give HUGE kudos to product lines that are searching for better alternatives (because they DO exist). So, I limit them as much as possible and when I cannot I don't stress about it.
And lastly...the one kicker for me. If I pick up a product and the first 3 ingredients are Water, Mineral Oil and Alcohol I put it down (and even hide it in the back of the shelf) and WALK AWAY.

I know this is A LOT to take in. I think the above information is the core to understanding what you are looking for in a natural product. There is more, trust me. But if you understand this, you are good. If you want to do some more reading, www.sephora.com has an AMAZING natural glossary. When I get confused, I hop on there.

Next time....Comparing some natural lines! I have tried them all, [unfortunately]. Almay, Neutrogena, Physicians Formula, Clinique, Bare Escentuals, Korres and Tarte are on my list...I have discovered some AMAZING things about these lines. Have another line you want me to look into?? Comment and let me know!

Have any questions?? Comment away. If I don't know the answer, I'll find it.

Let Me Introduce Myself...

2009-10-23T15:11:00.001-05:00

Hello skin enthusiast! Welcome to Studio Skin, an online blog meant to educate and motivate you on your skin, its needs and any questions you might have!

As a licensed Esthetician in Tulsa, OK I am aware of all the questions and concerns that are out there, as well as the many myths and rumors about skin care that haunt us. After thinking long and hard about a creative way I can reach people (even people NOT in the Oklahoma area) and an exciting way to educate those who wish to be educated, I finally landed here!

So what is this exactly you ask? This blog will feature posts on all things SKIN. From basic skin care myths and truths to more in depth knowledge on things like Aging, Pigmentation, Acne, Prevention of all sort, AS WELL AS information on things you can do at home (DIYers get ready!) and in the treatment room to correct, prevent and repair [almost] ANYTHING you wish.

Along with information about the skin on your face, I will NOT forget topics like Full Body Waxing (Brazilian? Scared? Don't Be!), Full Body Skin Analysis, and the Latest, Greatest (and not so great) Treatment options that Cosmo, Your BFFL and Mom have told you about!

...and if you're super lucky....exclusive specials and treatment options for all you lucky readers!

SO. My only dilemma is where to begin?? Leave me a comment and tell me YOUR greatest skin concern, question or problem! YOU tell ME what you want to know!